Pairings | Picpoul de Pinet

The best wine matches with salt cod
Salt cod, a popular Good Friday dish in parts of the Mediterranean, is cooked many different ways which suggest different wine pairings.
Bear in mind that like other salty foods it will have the effect of making wines taste sweeter than they are so drier wines with good acidity work best. In general I’d go for a crisp white like a picpoul or an albarino but there are occasions when a red or rosé will work just as well.
Brandade de morue
This southern French salt cod purée works well with crisp dry whites such as Picpoul de Pinet, slightly earthier whites like a white Côtes du Rhône or a dry southern French rosé
Salt cod croquetas or fish cakes
As you’d expect, very good with chilled fino sherry and albarino but more surprisingly also with savagnin from the Jura
Fried salt cod with garlic-pepper sauce
An ice-cold vinho verde, according to Portuguese-American food writer David Leite who has a particularly good collection of salt cod recipes on his website Leite's Culinaria. It might also work with a grüner veltliner as did this salt cod tartare
Portuguese style baked salt cod with cream (bacalhau com natas)
Also often paired with vinho verde but I’d go for a young Douro white with a lick of oak or - less conventionally - with a white rioja.
A robust dish such as a salt cod stew with tomatoes and peppers (ciambotta) can actually take a full-bodied red, especially if it includes chorizo. See this pairing with a super Tuscan and this match with a Languedoc cabernet/merlot blend.
For more wine pairing ideas with salt cod check out Catavino
Image © uckyo - Fotolia.com

What wine to drink with gazpacho
If there’s one dish more difficult to pair with wine than already tricky tomatoes it’s gazpacho, the chilled Spanish summer soup that includes raw onion and peppers as well. So what wine should you match with it?
White rather than red I suggest and make it young, crisp and fresh without any oak influence. Bear in mind that if you’re in the mood for gazpacho you’re in the mood for a refreshing drink
6 of the best wine pairings for gazpacho
Rueda or sauvignon blanc
Good Rueda (and I wouldn’t buy the cheapest one you can lay your hands on) is a great match with the same bright citrussy flavours as a sauvignon blanc which of course would do too. I suggest one of the more restrained styles such as Reuilly from the Loire rather than a full-on New Zealand sauvignon blanc
Albarino
Galicia’s elegant versatile white is always a good option
Picpoul de Pinet
As is Picpoul from the south of France (good value too)
Dry Italian whites
Always spring into life with food - anything from a good pinot grigio from the Alto Adige to a Falanghina, Pecorino or Greco di Tufo from the south
Manzanilla sherry
You might be surprised to find sherry so far down the list given it’s a go to match with soup but that’s because it’s unpredictable, depending on the sherry and the recipe. When it works it’s brilliant but it just might misfire. My favourite style would be well chilled manzanilla from a freshly opened bottle though with white gazpacho (ajo blanco) I would go for a fino - or even a dry moscatel.
Provence rosé - which is more like a dry white wine - is also a pretty good option if it’s not too fruity which generally would be the case.
And read about this surprise pairing with smoked vodka!
See also
The best wine matches for tomatoes
Photo © Ramon Grosso @fotolia.com

The best wine and beer pairings for savoury pies
We Brits don’t need much encouragement to eat pies—they’re a staple of comfort food culture. But when it comes to enjoying a drink with your pie, the question arises: which is the better match—wine or beer? The answer, as always, depends on the type of pie you’re talking about and the flavours it brings to the table.
Steak pies with gravy
Almost always better with a strong ale or porter in my opinion.
Steak pies with red wine sauce
Should work with any full-bodied red. I normally tend to favour Languedoc or Rhône-style reds but a new world red like a malbec or an Australian shiraz would work well too
Chicken pies with a creamy filling
I’d go for an unoaked or subtly oaked Chardonnay, old vine Chenin Blanc or any other smooth dry white. Cider and perry also work well with chicken pies.
Pies with a tomatoey filling
Whatever the other ingredients I generally find cooked tomato works better with wine than with beer - I’d suggest an Italian Sangiovese or a Tempranillo-based red like Rioja, especially if there’s chorizo in it.
Cheese and spinach pies
I generally prefer crisp whites such as Sauvignon Blanc or even a more neutral white such as a Picpoul de Pinet with a light vegetarian pie like this but a light red like a Beaujolais would be delicious too.
Fish pies
Pair with the same sort of wines as creamy chicken pies.
Cold pies
With a classic pork pie I’d always go for an English bitter. A cold game pie however is a great match for a good red burgundy or Pinot Noir.
Photo © Richard M Lee at Shutterstock

Dry or fruity? Which style of white wine pairs best with simply grilled fish?
About the last place I’d have expected to have an enlightening discussion about food and wine matching is in a fisherman’s shack called Chez Loulou down on the Languedoc coast. Actually I do it an injustice. It’s a restaurant - just - but one that relies for its appeal on fabulously fresh fish rather than fantastically skilled cooking.
The owner though, whose name I don’t yet know, has absolutely the right attitude to wine. How many restauranteurs when you order a particular wine would ask you how you like it - dry or fruity? (The wine in question being the local Picpoul de Pinet.)
When we hesitated he went on to suggest that if we were looking for a wine to drink as an aperitif we should choose a fruity one whereas if we were concerned to match the grilled sea bass we had ordered we should opt for a drier style.
Of course this advice is particularly apposite in France where, when you order grilled fish, that’s what you get. They don’t go in for veg or other accompaniments that might possibly create a bridge to a fruitier wine.
But there is a useful insight here - namely that ultra-dry whites that don’t particularly shine on their own (Muscadet being the other obvious example) spring to life when partnered with simply cooked, ultra-fresh fish. And that fruitier wines can sometimes overwhelm their delicate sweet flavour.
It also shows how deeply engrained knowledge of food and wine still is in the average Frenchman!
Although not enough to keep the restaurant going, sadly. It has closed since I wrote this post!
See also...
- 12 great wine pairings with salmon
- What's the best wine pairing for tuna?
- When to pair red wine with fish
Image credit: Oleksandr P
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